I searched the forum for threads pertaining to my problem, but I did not find any (sorry if there was one and I missed it). I saw several folks with problems pertaing to just the freezer or just the refrigerator, but I have aproblem with both... Whilrpool Conquest Gold Side-by-side approx 26 cu.ft. 1999 (been in use since mid-2000) No cooling/freezing whatsoever lights work water dispenser working I have to be honest, I haven't cleaned under it in a considerably lonnnnggggg time (and I do have pets in the house so there is probably some fur underneath ). I just noticed this late last night and I haven't time to actually move the appliance and check underneath it. Do you think it might just be a matter of dust/fur on the coils underneath (or am I wishful thinking)? Thank you so much for any help you can offer!
clean the coils and make sure the fan is running under the ref. Are the coils under the ref warm-hot? Is the compressor running at all? any clicking going on? Might as well throw in the model # too.
Thanks for the reply Joneq!!! I'll check those things as soon as I get home and let you know. As for a clicking sound, I can answer that now...yes, I have heard a sound like this, but it just sounded similar to the sound the icemaker produces when it is about to fill with water (I have since turned the icemaker off so I will pay attention when I get home to see if it is still clicking.). I ran out on my lunch hour and purchased that brush made especially for cleaning under the refrigerator. The guy at the hardware store also suggested using an air-compressor or reversing my vaccuum suction and blowing air underneath to really get it clean. I don't have the ability to do either of these things and I'm not so sure I should be hauling my leafblower into my kitchen for this purpose
Hi Joneq! OK, when I got home, I cleaned the coils thoroughly (who knew that I was missing a dog and he was under there for the past three years It has been about three hours since I cleaned the coils and it does not seem to be getting colder (maybe not enough time has passed?) The model number is GD25DIXHS02. It is a 2001 model (I had a brain cramp earlier when I said 1999). The coils underneath are neither warm nor cold. Air is blowing our of the bottom-rear, but it is room temperature. Something is coming on inside, as I still hear a clicking-then buzzing sound (but the icemaker has been turned off). Any thoughts???
Possibly part #16 ion this page. Part # 17 is the capacitor that the relay adds to the starting circuit to help the compressor start.test the relay first. The capacitor is dangerous. Don't touch it for now. http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrame...eratorMark=11 I assume the compressor is not running because it can't start. The part is the starting relay.First make sure you have 120 volts at the outlet and at the compressor. See if this page help you to test it. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appli...essorrelay.php AGAIN WITH THE SCROLLING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am a little confused/concerned about which item that I am looking at is the relay switch and which is the capacitor (since based on the diagram they are both square boxes). Is the relay switch the white box (approx 1 x 1.5) that is attached to the side of the compressor (which I'm assuming is the large, black barrel - yes, this is the first time I have seen the inside of this appliance )? I removed the white, plastic plate from the side of the part (terminal box?) I believe houses the relay switch. Based on the links you provided, it seems as though I should just be able to slide the relay switch out, but the inside of my terminal box doesn't look like the picture on the link (mine seems much more modern/sleek.) There are four colored wires that run into the part I am looking at. Two of the wires then proceed to run to the fan. Based on this description, is the part in question, in fact, the relay switch? If so, do I need to apply more pressure in order for it to come off of the side of the compressor?
capacitors should only have 2 wires. The relay is in a case.The capacitor looks like it is held in place by 1 screw it would not have wires going to the fan. Stay away from it. Unplugging the ref does not mean it is safe. Do a google search for discharging a capacitor. You have a solid state[no moving parts] relay you need to remove it and have it tested. If you can't have it tested leave the ref unplugged so it doesn't try to start. Maybe someone else can help you get it out. It may snap in.
Thanks joneq! One last (I hope) question. I think I discovered the capacitor (which I know not to touch!). Would the capacitor have 2 wires running from it to the relay? I think this is beyond my abilities, so I will call in the professional, but I am glad now that I will not sound so stupid when I call. Thank you so much for your help!!!
Yes. The relay adds the capacitor to the circuit via. Don't be too hasty and make the call just yet. There may be someone here who can walk you through it better than me. This is pretty simple to do. I am not nuts about the price of that relay either,but it is more than just a relay.
OK, I'll wait a bit before I make the call and someone else may come along who can help me further. I'm not in a huge hurry. Although this is my primary refrigerator, I have another in the garage. Thanks, again! (I have to admit, I would be awefully proud of myself if I could fix this on my own )
Right ----and a lot richer to boot. Check your private messages.
It used to be that you could carry a universal relay in your tool box plug it on most compressor to determine that was the problem. Not that way anymore. Things are getting way too complicated expensive. The relay for your compressor is part # 2261636. It retails for $43.62 at APWagner.com. It does plug onto the side of the compressor. Hopefully that takes care of your problem. However, there is that chance the compressor is bad. Or, the capacitor is the problem. Part # 4387764 -$72.97. The capacitor is the part held on by a screw. I would take the chance of replacing the relay. ( It is listed as the Start-device combination ). If it still won't start the compressor it would be up to you to take the chance on buying that expensive capacitor. Maybe at that point it might be worthwhile to call the repairman let him determine if its the capacitor or compressor. If you bought the fridge in 2001 the compressor should still be under warranty. 5 years on the compressor sealed system. I believe labor is not included though. Too bad everything is made so cheap nowadays. I have an old GE ref. we bought used 26 years ago. Still keeps my beer cold. Dave
Our Whirlpool side-by-side Fridge and freezer just stopped working too. Lights water dispenser still worked. It turned out to be the defrost chip on the circuit board. Found this after taking the control panel off. Didn't have to replace the chip (About an $80 part). It was just loose so we re-soldered it. Both are doing their job now! Good Luck
Tags: whirlpool, refrigerator, cooling, freezing, relay switch, have wires, side compressor, capacitor have, cleaned coils, coils underneath, compressor running
I have read thru some old threads on this subject, and really want to be sure what I need to do. I have a split York AC unit in my place here in Mexico. The single pole 40 amp contactor 24 volt coil is toast and what is readily available, is the 30 amp,only. The 40 amp are the two poles. Some responded that a 2 pole should not be used as a constant current was needed on one side of the contactor for the heater on the compressor. Do AC,only,units have heaters? In another thread, someone stated that #6 wire could be used to jump the lugs on the side that did not have the pole on the old piece. In the same thread, another responded, that a two pole was fine, making no reference to jump the lugs. So, based on all the above, does the two pole contactor need any special attention if all four lugs on the top are wired back on the AC unit as taken off or will the now opened side that was always closed keep the compressor from kicking in? Thanks, Rich
Since your home is in Mexico I wouldn't think you would need to worry about the crankcase heater. How cold does it get where you are ?
The lowest temperature that it may get during the year is about 65 degrees. However, if the humidity, is way down as it is November thru April, the AC is not turned on until the outside is about 85 degrees in the early afternoon. In the evening, the AC is turned off as the breeze comes off the bay. May thru October, the humidity climbs and at which, the outside temp during the day will be as high as 85 to 95 and the evenigs cooling to any where from 85 to 75:if the evenings are any 80's or high 70's, the unit will be left on, at which time it will cycle on and off. In essence, the compressor is exposed to a long period of warm air before it is manually turned on. Thanks, Rich
Id just say dont worry about it. At 65o down there freon sure wont try and migrate to the compressor. With units that do have heaters on them .They will say turn on 24 hr before you run them. You sure dont need that there. The single pole 40 amp contactor 24 volt coil is toast and what is readily available, is the 30 amp,only. The 40 amp are the two poles. Stay with a 40 amp if thats whats on there. You can go to one pole or the two pole. The units with just the one pole contactor is cause the maker is saving $$$ cause the points have silver in them. ED
Ed, Thank you for the help and in my case, why a two pole contactor appears feasible to use. As to the use of the #6 wire jumper that I mentioned in my original post, is this ok to do if the current is needed for the compressor heater if other climate circumstances may dictate it? I'm sure others that have seen that post,too, wonder if the comment is practical. Rich
why a two pole contactor appears feasible to use. It will kill both legs of power to the inside of the unit. With one that just kills or opens one leg only. there always is 110V in the unit even if it is not running. Just forget about the heater are as called crankcase heater . I think you said you had 4 ton units That call for a #6 wire and a 45 amp breaker. ED
I am in a similar situation. I baught the 2 pole contactor instead of 1 pole. Checked with my A/C manufacturer that I can use it. My problem is that i am not a professional and I do not know substitue a 2 pole contactor where I used to have a 1 pole contactor. It is weekend, the shops are closed that sell HVAC parts, any help would be highly appricated. Thanks in advance. Originally Posted by Ed Imeduc It will kill both legs of power to the inside of the unit. With one that just kills or opens one leg only. there always is 110V in the unit even if it is not running. Just forget about the heater are as called crankcase heater . I think you said you had 4 ton units That call for a #6 wire and a 45 amp breaker. ED
if you want to stick with a single pole setup and actually change nothing, just use one pole of the contactor and leave the other one empty.
Originally Posted by nap if you want to stick with a single pole setup and actually change nothing, just use one pole of the contactor and leave the other one empty. Hi Nap, I actually want to use the 2 pole contactor now. My current one was a 1 pole contactor. What should be wiring look like for a 2 pole contactor? I am posing the photo of my current 1 pole contactor and the photo of the contactor i am trying ot use to replace the existing one: Current burnt one:- New one:-
Oh, so now you want to do things differently. Just kidding. So, I see 3 wires on the load side of the contactor (the side that is feed through). WHere do they go? (trying to figure out if sonething actually needs to be hot all the time in some way for whatever reason) btw: that brown or whatever colored wire on the terminal looks pretty toasted. Be sure to cut away any overheated sections when repairing.
Originally Posted by nap Oh, so now you want to do things differently. Just kidding. So, I see 3 wires on the load side of the contactor (the side that is feed through). WHere do they go? (trying to figure out if sonething actually needs to be hot all the time in some way for whatever reason) btw: that brown or whatever colored wire on the terminal looks pretty toasted. Be sure to cut away any overheated sections when repairing. ok, I took some more photos as well as labled the orginal one. Hopefully the setup is now more clear. photos:- Rest of the photos:-
I dont know of anything in a unit that need a hot leg all the time. The Mfg. use just one contactor cause it cost less. The crankcase heater if you have on is on the hot legs comeing in and is on all the time. What I think I see that is bad bad is that aluminum wire????? comeing in that has no paste On it at all
i am begining to think that i should get a pro in to fix the wiring... in the meantime, if i understand you correctly , I can use the exact same wiring for the 2 pole contactor? The only difference being now now 1 pole is not hot wired? btw, could you elaborate on the paste for Alimunium wire? I am very new to this.... Thanks
I do see some connections on the line side of the contactor, as Ed said, that would be anything that needed hot al the time. Now to the aluminum wire? First, is it aluminum or tinned copper? If aluminum, the terminals MUST be rated for aluminum wire or don;t use the aluminum or get a contactor that has alum. rated terminals. Now, Ed said something about paste. Although there is no code requirement for No-Ox or some other oxidation preventing material, it is a very good idea to use it as it does some good and prevents oxidation which itself can cause a loose terminal which can cause all the problems you have right now. don't forget to fix that brown wire. with the close up, I can see the terminal is not crimped on properly and that can also cause a hot wire which the melted insulation could be a result of.
when using no-ox, be sure to brush the aluminum clean before applying. and yes, the wiring is the same.
Originally Posted by nap I do see some connections on the line side of the contactor, as Ed said, that would be anything that needed hot al the time. Now to the aluminum wire? First, is it aluminum or tinned copper? If aluminum, the terminals MUST be rated for aluminum wire or don;t use the aluminum or get a contactor that has alum. rated terminals. Now, Ed said something about paste. Although there is no code requirement for No-Ox or some other oxidation preventing material, it is a very good idea to use it as it does some good and prevents oxidation which itself can cause a loose terminal which can cause all the problems you have right now. don't forget to fix that brown wire. with the close up, I can see the terminal is not crimped on properly and that can also cause a hot wire which the melted insulation could be a result of. Thanks again for your help! How do I tell if it is aluminum or not? What is a good place to pickup No-Ox from? Home Depot? thanks again for your help!!! Thank you Thank you Thank you!
scrape it with a knife or cut a bit off the end. If you see copper, then it isn;t aluminum but tinned copper. If you are familiar with both, simply bending it would tell you as aluminum is softer. as to no-ox; I believe you can get it at the big box home stores. If not, it is available at any electrical supply house.
Its hot, my pregnant wife is mad and I the AC wouldnt start! I was couldnt strip the wires or clean them up as it was dark, but was able to put the contactor in. Now the freaking AC does not want to start!!! my backup plan (the weather channel with a cold front coming in this weekend) has failed me!!!! Guys, what could be wrong? Is it the wires I didnt fix tonight? Do you folks know of a service which would come out on a Saturday? I am desperate now, for if it cannot be fixed, im off to buy portable indoor unit(s) tomorrow. (btw, i am in Austin, TX) Originally Posted by nap scrape it with a knife or cut a bit off the end. If you see copper, then it isn;t aluminum but tinned copper. If you are familiar with both, simply bending it would tell you as aluminum is softer. as to no-ox; I believe you can get it at the big box home stores. If not, it is available at any electrical supply house.
In a ciy like Austin, TX Get the phone book .Ill bet there are some 24/7 AC companys.
Originally Posted by Ed Imeduc In a ciy like Austin, TX Get the phone book .Ill bet there are some 24/7 AC companys. Thanks ED, I looked up online YPs and that didnt help too much. I will strip the wire and then call around tomorow morning.
They say 24/7 http://www.polarac.net/
Tags: pole, contactor, unit, pole contactor, Originally Posted, aluminum wire, side contactor, aluminum tinned, aluminum tinned copper, crankcase heater, side that, single pole
My sister has a famous GE JVM1650 that works normally EXCEPT no heat. She said it starts to make a different noise after a couple of seconds on, though. It appears from the internet that this is a common failure, using GE part WB27X10489 kit of diode/magnetron/stirrer to fix it. My question is: do you have to take the oven off the wall to do this, how hard/how much time to replace the components, and is it better to replace this 5 year old oven otherwise in very nice shape with a $200 new one. The part kit is about $130. Thank you very much for the opinions.
I'm sure that mitchella has long since resolved the problem, but for other readers who come across this post, here is how I replaced the magnetron in my GE JVM1631WB002 microwave. I have no idea how other models might differ. Also, I am not an electrician or engineer, so take the steps as an outline only and perform your own due-diligence. I suggest taking pictures along the way to ensure you get everything back together. I'm writing this from memory, and I'm not mentioning various wires that have to be remove or moved aside. First, the magnetron has a 10 year warranty. After several people tried to schedule a (costly) service call, I finally called the warranty department at 888-239-6832, gave them my info, and they shipped out a new magnetron/stirrer kit. To install it: 1) Unplug microwave 2) Remove 2 screws and vent cover @ top front of microwave 3) Remove 1 screw at top of interface panel, slide panel up and away from the microwave. Disconnect wires (being careful not to touch anything that might shock you) and set aside. 4) Discharge capacitor. 5) Remove bottom panel (w/ filters and lights). After removing the screws it will hinge down from the back and will take some finesse to get off of the tabs it's hooked over. 6) Support the microwave and remove 3 screws holding it to the cabinet above. These will be accessible from within the cabinet. 7) Hinge down microwave and unhook from wall mounting plate. During this process you will need to feed the power cord through the hole in the cabinet. 8) Remove screw and silver plate around fans on the top back of the microwave. 9) Remove screw and plate holding power cord in place in the microwave cover. 10) Remove screws and cover (sides and top) of the microwave. 11) Remove 2 screws holding panel on the right side of the microwave, behind the capacitor. One screw is on top, the other in the front. Remove the panel. 12) Unscrew transformer from bottom and swing out of the way, so that the magnetron can drop free. 13) Unbolt magnetron and drop it out. Replace magnetron, transformer, and side cover. 14) Remove plastic clip keeping the plastic cover in the roof of the microwave's interior from twisting. You may have to do this from above, which will require removing the plate under the top filter. Remove the plastic cover and replace the stirrer. Replace cover and clip. 15) Replace diode between capacitor and chassis. 16) Reinstall cover and microwave by reversing previous steps.
I called this number and all I get is a recording saying if I'm calling after hows to call back, nothing on the message says what the company is. I did find another number for customer service but they said a repair person would have to come check out the microwave and determine if the magnatron is bad. The part is under warranty but they want to charge for a service call and labor. How did you get the part sent to you? I've replaced the magnatron in numerous microwaves so it's not problem but this one is outrageously over priced in the $120 range.
Originally Posted by sbown0221 I called this number and all I get is a recording saying if I'm calling after hows to call back, nothing on the message says what the company is. I did find another number for customer service but they said a repair person would have to come check out the microwave and determine if the magnatron is bad. The part is under warranty but they want to charge for a service call and labor. How did you get the part sent to you? I've replaced the magnatron in numerous microwaves so it's not problem but this one is outrageously over priced in the $120 range. I call GE at 800-386-1215 option 5 to ask for a replacement Magnetron but was told that they will not send out any part due to radiation from the part. I was quoted by GE technician for $290.94 for labor to replace the Magnetron (part is free. How generous of GE?). That is why I ask for the part to do it myself. Filed a complaint with Dept. of consumer affair. Waiting to hear from them. Will update this post so that others will not make same mistake buying form GE again.
Originally Posted by Notsosmart Will update this post so that others will not make same mistake buying form GE again. Trouble is, I bet each company has things this way, with one appliance( and vehicles and other expensive things) or another. I know a company that charges $70 for refrigerator crisper drawers made like eggshells. They look like they should cost 50ў! You think I as a homeowner, would buy from such a company if I knew that in advance? What do we have to do to protect ourselves from such practices?: Ask for a parts list and check out the price and availability of all parts? Either that or you have to find a better job so you do not have to worry about such stuff.
CA Consumer affairs contacted GE and they send me the magnetron. I replaced the Magnetron and the Microwave work. The moral of the story is not to buy from GE again. It costs way too much to buy their parts and service. Even when the part is under warranty, they still want to hassle you by not allowing you to do it yourself. The cost of the service call $99.95. Labor if they replace for me is around $280.00. That is ridiculos for 15 minute of work. GE sucks, I will never buy another product from GE or their subsidiary.
For the fun of it, you might want to call up another mfg. and see what their policy is. You might very well find them to have similar policies to your disliking. THEN who do you buy from?
This post was very helpful and informative. I have a 9 year old GE 36 inch microwave model jvm1860sd001 and lately it started making noise. After talking to couple of people and a mechanic, the magnetron unit needs to be replaced. I was not knowing that it has a 10 year warranty and thanks for this post. I called GE repair and they gave me an estimate of $300 even though the part is covered under warranty. I was very nice with the lady and she gave me a part department number 1-800-626-2002. The lady was very nice since I greeted her well. I cut to the chase. I gave her model # and serial number and asked her to ship magnetron unit to me since it is under 10 year warranty. She looked at her computer and said that yes it is under warranty and she took my address and will ship it. I guess the idea is not to yell or become angry with the people as after all we are all human beings. I have found that most of the problems with customer service are solvable if we are nice with them. Yes, sometime, we do get a tough-nut to crack representative. In that situation, I just bail out and call again to to see if I get a better person to talk to. Now, I just need to get someone to fix it. It was good info that really helped me. THANK YOU.
I am amazed that GE - or any other manufacturer - would provide a customer with a replacement microwave magnatron tube and allow them to replace it themselves. There are high voltages present inside microwave ovens, and more importantly, if the new magnatron tube is not installed correctly and the oven reassembled correctly, dangerously high levels of microwaves might leak outside of the oven and harm anyone standing nearby. I would think most manufacturers would be horrified by the liability of allowing customers to attempt self repairs on microwave ovens. Most newer microwaves don't even have user-serviceable light bulbs and customers are advised to have a trained repairman replace the interior light bulb. I've noticed that new microwaves no longer warrant the magnatron tube for any longer period of time than the overall oven warranty. It appears new microwaves are pretty much a throw-away commodity and it's cheaper to buy a new one that repair the old one.
There is a lot of scare propagated about high voltage capacitor and magnetron. This is very important to know that one has to discharge capacitor to avoid any mishap but there is no need to scare people. This is not a rocket science and can be done easily. I would like to put my experiences here so that it is useful to others. My GE Space maker XL 1800 is almost 10 years old now and one day, it broke finally. I checked the price and it is almost $900+ for the new one. I did not had heart to buy a new one so I decided to fix it myself. It was a struggle to get this microwave off the range and I had to take help from my 2 daughters to get it finally down. I opened the whole microwave and noticed that there was a sound coming from the logic / motherboard behind the panel. I discharged the capacitor by short circuiting it. This is the only precaution one has to take. Since it was used for 10 years with heavy cooking, their was a lot of oily surface inside. I took W-40 and slowly cleaned the whole microwave from inside and outside to remove this thin oily film which was all over the place. I contacted Sears Part and ordered a new motherboard / logic board which was $170 and when it came, I replaced it with the defective one. How I came to conclusion that the motherboard / logic board is gone is from the fact that I noticed some burned down on the board and the noise that seems to be coming was from a transformer like object on the board. After I replaced the board, the Microwave started working again. I took this opportunity to replace the magnetron tube which I had gotten from GE. I thought initially that the magnetron tube was making noise as I read through several posts but it was not the case since the sound was still coming even after replacing the tube. Since microwave was on the ground with top cover taken off, I noticed that this sound was coming from the top of the microwave and I saw a small motor at the top. I did not know what it was so I googled it. It turns out to be a stirrer motor and the sound was coming from this stirrer motor. I took it apart and based upon suggestions posted on the web, I tried to fix it myself so that the plastic gears which are in the contact of the bottom plate do not touch it by putting an O ring but it did not fix it. I checked the price and it is an expensive motor around $90 from GE site so I bought a used one in $10 from ebay and replaced it. After I replaced this stirrer motor, the microwave now runs as a new one with no grinding sound and it is very quite now the way it should be. So in just $190, I was able to fix this microwave and I am sure that it is going to last for another 5-10 years now since it has a new magnetron tube also. The question is - is it the worth of trouble? The answer is - if you are willing and have patience then it is. Otherwise spend another $900+ to get a new microwave. I am very pleased that my this old microwave is now like a new one and please do not be scared of this high voltage capacitor and just know to short-circuit it so that it is discharged before you do the repair. It appears from this whole exercise that this little stirrer motor was the culprit and it is a very poorly designed motor which is actually built by Samsung and not GE. It has some plastic gears and when they start touching the bottom plate of the motor due to wear and tear, this grinding sound comes which is very annoying.
I notice that Sears will not sell the average person a magnetron. My question is why? Is it due to the high voltage and shorting the capacitor? I read somewhere that after replacing the magnetron, you're supposed to perform a radiation leak check. This is my concern. I'm an electronics tech for 15 years, so the high voltage stuff does not concern me, but I don't know enough about radiation and don't want to chance any leaks. From what I read, it appears that the door seal is what prevents leakage, so changing the magnetron shouldn't have an effect. I much prefer to fix something if I can, but the safety of my family is first and foremost. Any thoughts on this? I have a GE microwave model JVM1660AB. It is arcing and sparking up by the stirrer motor, even with the stirrer motor unplugged. I still have to pulll the cover to see if I can see what is going on in there. Right now, I'm assuming I need the magnetron/stirrer motor kit. Thanks! Doug
There is a lot of scare propagated about high voltage capacitor and magnetron. This is very important to know that one has to discharge capacitor to avoid any mishap but there is no need to scare people. This is not a rocket science and can be done easily. No....it's not rocket science but it's VERY hazardous to most people. I've seen them mis-installed and missing hardware. - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - If it's arcing and sparking then the mag is working. You've got another issue there. If door gasket is clean and in good condition then leakage should be normal.
Tags: replacing, microwave, magnetron, stirrer, diode, stirrer motor, high voltage, under warranty, coming from, service call, that this
It's time for me, to move into the 21st century use Pex. Home Depot has a crimp tool for $60. Online I see them for all different prices. The more expensive tools seem to be a little bigger. I don't know if that's a problem for small spaces. Any recommendations?
Yes, bigger is a problem. I bought my ring crimper that does 1/2 and 3/4 many years ago. They are the size of bolt cutters and to open the jaws, you need about 24 of space. Some times it just won't fit. I also have a small hand held clamp that is tightened with a wrench for tight spots. I have seem a crimper that is battery operated and looks like a drill. You also have two options for securing the pipe to the fitting, crimping or cinching. If crimping, you need a size specific tool, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4... I believe cinching only needs one tool and you don't have to fight to get the tool around the pipe to make the cinch. The GO/NOGO tool is nice to have if you are doing a lot of crimping. If you can get a one hand operating tool that would be the best so you can hold the ring in place with the other hand as you clamp it.
dan0661, Do you have any brand recommendations? I forgot to ask about a removal tool too.
There's at least 4, differant ways to connect Pex. Shark Bite, crimp, expansion, and coiled bands. I made the mistake of buying the battery operated one for the coils and then found out no one in this area stocks the bands. You might want to cheak on Craigs list or Ebay.
I'm also in this situation. Been picking up PEX piping as it goes on sale to do a full swap over. Have not picked up a tool yet. For me, availabililty is the biggest issue, next is cost. I need to be able to pick up more crimps or a new tool at the local hardware store if I'm caught in a jam.
I've had the Shark Bite crimp tool for a couple of years. It seems to be well made and it's certainly easy to use. I've used it to do 3 bathrooms and to install a water softener/whole house filter. You do have to do some planning to make sure the joint will be accessible for the tool, but you'll never go back to copper.
I personally like the bands and use them...There are many discussions on bands vs cinch rings. I also like the watts brand kit here. 0650872 - Watts 0650872 - 3/8 - 3/4 PEX Crimp All Tool Kit What brand was the home depot unit? Watch out...I bought some no name tools that were way out of spec...
I personally like the bands and use them...There are many discussions on bands vs cinch rings. I also like the watts brand kit here. 0650872 - Watts 0650872 - 3/8 - 3/4 PEX Crimp All Tool Kit What brand was the home depot unit? Watch out...I bought some no name tools that were way out of spec... The band vs. clamp debate always gets me. Probably going clamps as the hardware store locally (little mom and pop shop) carries and recommends them.
I didn't know that there were that many choices. The Watts brand looks good. I think Home Cheapo sells Shark Bite. If a Pex job has to be re-done, what about a removal tool? For example, Shark Bite has a removal tool for their couplings.
That such a nice Kit.. Thanks lawrosa! I have been looking for a good crimp kit
what about a removal tool? I cut the ring off with a small hack saw... But most of the time I will just cut the fitting off and redo. Easier IMO.. There is often plenty of slack that you can pull the pipe the 1 you lost cuttung the whole fitting out...
I'm very tempted by the multi-head tool since they appear to be a bargain vs. buying separate. My question though is if I would EVER need anything other than 1/2 3/4 for a single-family home? The linked kit had a 5/8 head but no 1...I didn't know there were 5/8 fittings...
I'm thinking I might bit the bullet and stay copper for the 1 portion of my plumbing.
I talked to a very good plumber who also works at Home Depot. He said that the crimp tool at HD ($60.00) covers all the sizes but if I want the tool that he uses, it will cost well over $200.00. It looks like I'll be going with the HD tool for now. The kit lawrosa posted looks good too but I don't want to spend that much.
He said that the crimp tool at HD ($60.00) covers all the sizes Be prepared for it to go out of tolerance... Then you will have crimping issues and more leaks then you want. You'll see.....
What does out of tolerance mean why would it do that? I totally trust the guy who spoke to me. I don't think he is the type to make money for HD by tricking customers.
My local HD sells the Shark Bite crimper. According to the paperwork that comes with the tool this tool is adjusted at the factory and no further adjustment should be needed. However, it also states that the tool may wear through extended use and they provide an adjustment procedure. I've probably done close to a hundred crimps with mine and it is still OK. IMO as long as the tool pre load is in specs and the crimp passes the go - no go check the joint will be fine.
I probably won't be doing that many Pex jobs but I'll ask about the 'out of tolerance' thing anyway.
That could be another plus for choosing cinch clamp system. I believe it takes less crimping force and doesn't vary by fitting size. Less force = less wear on a tool that may be made of marginal steel. For homeowner use it may not make a bit of difference. Do use the go/no go gauge.
Does anyone have some suggestions on make an adequate storage box for welding rods to keep them dry and at optimum usability? I have an old refrigerator I'm using now, with good sealing action, what else could I do? Thanks for any suggestion!
Drill a 1/2 hole thru the back of it near the top of lower(frig) section and mount a porcelain bulb base w/ a 100w bulb.Run the wire out the hole in the back. Mike
My grandfather, a professional pipefitter for over 40 years, kept welding robs in open ended tubes on a shelf in his open-air workshop. I don't think you need to get too fancy with storage, unless the quality of rods has significantly declined in the last 20 years.
pendragon, it would make a diff as to where you are. Moisture is the devil when dealing with welding rods. If you are in Arizona, I doubt you would have a problem with your storage method. I live in southern Mi and moisture is always a problem with long term storage of rod. Not only does the moisture damage the flux, it makes welding more difficult with the addition of all that hydrogen and oxygen. Bad welds can result. mla2ofus' suggestion is what I typically see that seems to be quite effective to warm the interior enough to stave off the moisture issue.
Florida, probably isn't a state in the union with a higher average humidity than us. I guess rod quality has went down, or maybe he really was just that good.
the temp fluctuations aren;t as extreme in Florida. Maybe that makes a difference but even if you can well with the thing, there is the possibility of additional H and O2 that could cause inclusions or gas pocketing. The flux and metals are designed for specific reasons. The additional elements can cause a problem. Take a peak at this site. It speaks to 7018 (low hydrogen rod), moisture and the problems involved. http://www.keenovens.com/articles/7018-storage.htm
I've become convinced by this thread and the Keen oven sales guy that moisture is a bad thing, expecially for the 7018 rod I use a lot of. I don't, however, believe that the guy is right about needing a commercially produced oven for keeping my rods dry. Even the ovens that are touted on the Keen site have a temperature range of 100F - 250F. That means to me that 100F or even more degrees, if warmer than the outside air, will dispell all moisture issues. Why would their ovens go that low, anyway, if that wouldn'd work? My experience is that anything toasted to 150 degree F dries stuff out, (Saved my cell phone this way after a dunking in a urinal!) so with a 100 watt bulb in a frigerator, 150F should be easy to obtain. The result, if I'm thinking right, should be dry rods. I never totally trust the advise of people who have a product to sell me, the necessity of which is created by their own advise.
I'm thinking I will try 2 100 watt or 150 watt halogen bulbs - They last a long time and put out a lot of heat - and see what kind of temp I can get - I will need to put in a switch on the outside of the frig so the damn thing won't blind me when I open the door! Anyone know which kind of bulb heats the most for the amount of electricity? (I already know not to use flourescent!) The Keen site info made mention of 7018 rods that have already become moisture affected and needing heated to 500 degrees F. Personally I think that is more sales BS, what do you'all think of that?
If you have an electric oven, you can bake the rods in there. Gas ovens produce moisture (a byproduct of the gas burning) so they are not as effective although it would be better than nothing. As far as 500 degrees? I would have to research that but they may have some reasoning I am not aware of. Halogen lamps produce more heat per watt (I believe). If the light does not produce enough heat (which everybody I have ever known has done it that way) you could always install a small electric heater and thermostat. I would imagine a lower temp would produce the same results but slower if there is a moisture issue already. If you start out with fresh dry rods, I would think 150 would do just fine.
Originally Posted by pelican43015 Does anyone have some suggestions on make an adequate storage box for welding rods to keep them dry and at optimum usability? I have an old refrigerator I'm using now, with good sealing action, what else could I do? Thanks for any suggestion! An old fridge is the best rod box you can have, period. However, if you're in the field frequently you need a good electric or propane box. You will never make one for as cheap as you can buy one. That's a fact!
A 100 watt bulb in an old fridge will be just fine for you.Halogen lights can get expensive to keep on 24/7. Look folks, as soon as you open a box of rod it wiil start to attract moisture. Moisture is a VERY bad thing when it comes to welding rods.If you don't have a rod oven, homemade or otherwise, at least seal the remaining rods in the box they came in with duct tape or purchase the airtight containers that hold five pounds of rod at the welding supply store.The 60 series rods (6010, 6011, 6013,etc) are a little more moisture tolerant then the 70 series. It will take awhile to ruin a 60 series rod whereas a 70 series rod can be ruined in a matter of hours. Same with the 80 and 90 series which are very moisture intolerant. Keep'em dry people....Sid
I used an old mini fridge I got from a buddy for free - he was throwing it away. I fixed the broken door and got it seal up good. I replaced the plastic door inner as it was cracked an broken and wasn't allowing the magnetic rubber strip to seal up good. In lieu of the plastic door inner I used a piece of hi spangle steel to help reflect light from my light bulb. I rigged up a 100watt light with a small LED on the door to let me know when the bulb is burned out inside; as I only need 70 series rods from time to time. Yes, it is very important to keep your rods mositure free and is more of a problem in certain areas say the Houston metro area or anywhere near the ocean for that matter. In addition, in certain cernarios such as being a code welder, rods have to come from a rod box at a certain temp and a QC inspector will be there to check. If you weld often you know that nice dry rods burn cleaner, draw an arc easier and result in a much prettier an stronger weld. My little rod box maintains a temp between 140-160degreesF, respective of outside weather conditions.
Tags: welding, storage, welding rods, have some, action what, action what else, action what else could, action what else could Thanks, adequate storage, adequate storage welding, adequate storage welding rods
I have a GE XL44 (jgbp30wea5ww) whose oven doesn't work, though the broiler does. OVen Igniter coil doesn't glow at all, and thermostat seems OK, since red preheated light goes on if I heat up the oven using broiler, and then switch to bake. Should I try to replace the igniter? I have looked under the oven floor, and one igniter wire seem to be connected to the gas flow valve via a small white tube-like connector. This connector connects the fabric-insulated wire from igniter to the plastic-insulated wires used in cooler environments. Is it just a connector, or could it be a fuse? What is the easiest way to connect a replacement igniter? Do I use wire connection caps? Do I need high-temp ones? Where should I make connections? Any advice much appreciated. Thanks, Bigmama
Hello Bigmama and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliances topic. You can replace the ignitor yourself. First unplug the appliance. Loosen or remove the screws securing the glow ignitor. Follow the two wires attached to the ignitor. At the end farthest from the ignitor will be a wire pull apart quick disconect. Disconnect the ignitor at that point. Install the new ignitor exactly as you found the existing coil. Replace each part in reverse order. Plug in the appliance and turn it on. The burner now should work. Be advise that some new replacement ignitors do not come with quick disconnect ends. In this case, it's okay to cut off the quick disconnect from the old ignitor and attach it to the new ignitor. Simply clip off the wires several inches above the disconnect on the old ignitor, attach to the wires of the new ignitor and wire nut the two ends together. Repeat the process to attach the other set of wires and wire nut them together. There is no postive nor negative {polarity} to be concerned with. Glow ignitors are fragile they break easily. Handle and install the new ignitor carefully. Glowing hot surface ignitors are a non returnable and non refundable electric componet. STOVES-RANGES-OVENS-BROILERS For additional helpful information: http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=159808. Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book. Additional Suggestions: Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, repair and or owners manuals which may be available online. Advertisers Sponsors Web Sites: Appliance Parts, Pictures Help: http://www.PartSelect.com Appliances Parts Help: http://www.pcappliancerepair.com Appliances Parts: http://www.RepairClinic.com Kitchen Appliance Parts: http://www.parts-depot.online.com Whirlpool Appliance Parts: (with pictures diagrams) http://www.AppliancePartsPro.com Cautionary Note: Before attempting any mechanical repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first. Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method keeps the topic back up to the top of the list automatically. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Web Sites Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator Multiple Forums Moderator Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Tags: replace, oven, igniter, Appliance Parts, appliances parts stores, from ignitor, Help http, igniter wire, ignitor attach, Parts http, parts stores, quick disconnect, unplug appliance
Hello, I did a search and couldn't find anything with my problem and hopefully someone here has seen it before. The unit was in the house when we bought it 3 years ago. GE Potscrubber 650. Load it with dishes, put in the detergent and close and lock the door. When you click the timer over to start the wash, it DOES NOT fill with water, just starts making the cyling noise like it is full of water and is trying to wash. No manual so I'll start searching online but if anyone here has a good idea, I'll start there. Cheers! WR
Take the bottom plate off dishwasher locate the water inlet valve on left side. Check the solenoid for voltage while in the fill cycle. If you get 120 volts no water, the valve needs replaced. You might want to slightly loosen the water line first to be sure you have water going to valve. Another thing to check is the float inside the dishwasher on the front left floor. Make sure it moves freely up down isn't stuck in the up position.
Thanks so much! I'm checking those things tonite! I'm good with tools and can build engines and transmissions, but have NO IDEA how these things operate. Appreciate your time! WR
I will be applying sealer using a sprayer, and I already have several garden sprayers (one for roundup, one for insecticide and one for weedkiller!). Do I need a special deck sprayer or do the regular garden sprayers work just as well?
yardnut, I have a small deck restoratin business and I don't use a sprayer. Correcton - I have used on for lattice. I use a rolloer and/or a brush for a nice even stain job. Yardnut, please don't use Thompsons. fred
Fred, I am sealing an arbor - and there is quite a bit of lattice - that's why I am spraying. I wasn't planning on using Thompsons - not sure what yet, but it certainly won't be that stuff. So does a $10 garden sprayer work just as well as the more pricey ones that are labeled as deck sprayers? It will be a little while before I seal it - the wood has not even completely dried yet.
Hi Yardnut, It's difficult to get the spray nice and even, especially for a toned stain. The garden and deck sprayers are basically the same. I've got a $10 sprayer that works as well as my $40 unit. Now, the cat's meow is a Wagner --------- ONLY if you or your neighbors don't have white houses or cars. I used one on my shed, and they work very nice. Overspray can be a problem, as many deck contractors have experienced problems with spraying with a fine mist if there is any breeze. as info - select a semi-transparent oil-based stain with water repellancy and UV protection. I do like Wolmans FP, but Cabots, and Sikkens also rate high by Consumers Report. Good luck, fred
Thanks - I'll need it. I've already made my share of mistakes! And thanks for the suggestions - I'll be buying the stuff this week probably. Thank goodness it's almost done.
Yardnut, To answer your question - any sprayer will do as long as it has a good spray pattern - I've used both. Be careful using a sprayer because even on a day with little to no wind - the stuff gets on everything. I sprayed my fence but rolled/brushed my deck to avoid getting stain on the house/windows. Since we both live in Chesapeake, VA, you can borrow my Olympic sprayer if you would like Cheers, Brian
Thanks Brian! I might take you up on that - it will be a while till I spray it - I think I'm supposed to wait till the wood dries out thoroughly.
you could probably toss the 3 seperate sprayers and buy one SS sprayer. got one from sears eons ago. as long as you wash it out between uses itll last 20 or so years and still going strong when i used it for roundup brush killer a few days ago. --Josh
A SS sprayer is not the one to get for a deck. There may come a time when it is necessary to use a stripper, and poly is the only way to go. Sodium hydroxide will not corrode poly. They are all basically the same except for the tip, and I've sometimes had a better spray from a plastic tip vs a chrome tip. fred
Josh1 - one of the 3 sprayers IS a SS sprayer. But I use it only for Ornamec and weed killer, because I use them in high quantity. I guess I'm afraid that I might leave Roundup in it and then accidentally kill a plant. So it's just easier for me to have the separate ones - the others are all inexpensive plastic.
Fewalt - I bought the Wolmans FP - more reasonable that I expected - 18.00/gal, less a $5.00 rebate - even better. I've only used CWF before - it holds the color ok but doesn't seem to protect the wood for very long. So hopefully I will like this better. If I do, then I will use it on my deck next time. Any problem with that, by the way....using a different brand the second time around? Both are oil-based.
Hi Yardnut, Yep, I noticed the Wolmans was on sale till July. It was even cheaper than my contractor discount! How long ago was the CWF applied? If it is as good as the Wolmans it may repel another application. Wolmans states to use ONE coat only. You can do a test in one area: if it rubs off on a clean rag after about six hours it may not absorb and dry properly. I will usually strip a previous stain with a sodium hydroxide stripper. fred
Well, I would not be applying anything before it was needed. I have used the CWF for several years on my decks and my outdoor furniture, and have found it neccessary to reapply the CWF every couple of years. Since I stained my new deck last summer, I expect that next summer I'll be re-staining. But in my past experience, I have never stripped off the previous stain, and I don't plan to - I just don't have that kind of time. And I've never had any problems doing it that way either....what are your reasons for doing that? This Wolmans that I just bought is going on my arbor - not attached to the deck - and in a totally different area of the yard. It's the same color, so if it appears to be holding up well next summer- then that is when I would be considering switching to it for my deck and furniture as well. And now I have another question...hmmm - probably should be starting a new thread since this has gotten way off the original topic... . Yeah - think I will. See you there I hope.
What a pain - the stain just glopped out, no matter what setting I used. I will use sponge/brush from now on - even on lattice!
This probably sounds stupid, but I use my garden sprayer for insecticide, fungicide, herbicide, etc...I have a ziploc bag attached with duct tape with a label inside of it that says which I am currently using and (obviously) rinse it to the death in between. So I wonder if I use my sprayer for an oil-based stain, can I then clean it with mineral spirits or is it now committed for the purpose of staining? Thank you so much for any responses.
Welcome to the forums michelehixon! While I'm not prone to run stain thru my pump garden sprayers I do run a lot of different products thru it. If I know I'll not be using it for awhile I like to run a little mineral spirits thru it as it will displace any water and keep rust away. I see no reason not to use the same sprayer for everything as long as it's cleaned well between non compatible liquids.
Tags: deck, sprayer, garden, garden sprayers, basically same, deck sprayers, doing that, garden sprayer, have used, just well
I realize that there are numerous posts out there regarding engines not starting, etc, and the answers always seem to be cleaning the carb. My question is what is the issue when i have taken apart the carb, cleaned out all the openings, replaced the inlet needle, gaskets, spark plug etc. ? The carb initially leaked gas, so that is why i cleaned it out. It generally starts on Choke but as soon as i move it the slightest bit towards Run, it stalls immediately. Gas is new, oil is new. What am i missing? Thanks.
Something is still clogged in the carb. Take a thin wire and push it through all the jets and passage in the carb to make sure they're open and clear.
Posting the engine model, type and code would be very helpful. Have a good one. Geo
@Cheese. Thanks I will be pulling it apart again today and cleaning it thoroughly with a wire. @Geo. Here's the generator info: Briggs Stratton 5500 Storm Responder Portable Generator Model: 030430 Rev: 01 Engine: Model: 31A707 Type: 0117 B1 Carb: Nikki The following numbers are etched onto the carb 697978 G02523 6922.RN Thanks for your feedback. I'll let you know how today goes.
Thanks for your help guys. Seems like all was cleaned out well enough but it was user error that continued the problem. When I reassembled the carb, i did not properly connect the needle to the float, so basically the needle stayed plugged and did not allow any fuel in the bowl. Thanks again!
Have some issues with running generator. Starts ok but when lever pushed to run dies. Have checked everything else on gen. and is a-ok. Attempting to pull carb but the 2 threaded bolts I guess fastening carb to engine which has hex (?) type ends not allowing me to get a grip and remove? Have tried vise grips but bolts are apparently made of soft metal and just crushes under the pressure put on them to remove? Anybody have any suggestions? I also can't figure out how the small rubber gasket fits over the float bowl to re-attach to the base? It's a funny looking thin gasket with different shaped openings? HELP!!!!
There is a 5/16 hex surface on the long carb studs so you can remove them. The gasket just lays in place on the white plastic part inside the bowl, then you put it in place and put the screws in.
I'm unclear as to which way to place the white plastic portion on the fuel bowl to match with the bottom of the carb. It seems there are two ways to do it? Tx Jim
No, just one. The fuel inlet has to match up to the inlet in the carb.
Well, it seems like I have it back together BUT I'm having trouble with the needle and how the seat fits in the white plastic piece? I've tried several ways of putting the seat in either side of the plastic and one way I have it placed it is too tight so the float won't move. The other way I can get the float to move ok, but getting it started (runs very rough) and spits gas out the air intake?? Can't figure out correct this? I've tried several different ways of the seat and needle but nothing seems to work. When it's runniing (very rough) there's smoke from the exhaust as if it's getting too much fuel? I talked to a local repair shop here but they know less than I do, and they were recommended by B/S?? I think what I need is a complete breakdown and rebuild the carb with diagrams to follow?? Any suggestions...I'm lost!!!!!!!!!! Tks Jim
The way you have it where the float moves is correct. If it's getting too much gas, you probably don't have the rubber gasket parts between the carb and bowl in place properly.
Tags: briggs, stratton, generator, nikki, carb, white plastic, Briggs Stratton, float move, fuel bowl, getting much, place white, place white plastic, rubber gasket, Thanks your
My parents (both over 80) called to tell me that their A/C wasn't cooling their house. I went over and took a look - the fan on the outside Rheem unit wasn't turning. Read other posts on this forum and did the stick test - had someone turn the A/C on in the house, and I pushed the fan blade with a stick, and the fan started and started cooling the house (compressor seems to work, and the fan blades turned pretty freely when the unit was off). Symptoms all pointed to a bad start capacitor based on what I've read here yesterday and Friday. The old cap had a little hardened leakage but wasn't bulging or distorted. Went out and bought a same-spec replacement start capacitor for about $30 and installed it, connecting the leads the same. Expected the A/C to be fixed and start up. Didn't happen - the fan didn't move, and wouldn't start until I pushed it with a stick again. The fan started again and the A/C was cooling the house inside. I thought maybe the new cap needed to some time to charge up. Ran the A/C for 45 minutes, then turned it off, waited 5 minutes, and turned it back on again. The fan still did not start. This time however, even pushing it with a stick wouldn't get it started. The fan blades did seem to feel a little harder to push this time, but it was not as if the fan motor was significantly seized up or anything. Not sure what to try this time since the original symptoms seemed to point to a bad start cap. There is a run cap in the unit, but other than a slight coating of rust on the top, it doesn't look like it's exploded or anything like that. I was thinking of putting in a new run cap, but thought maybe it is the start relay. How should I check the relay and anything else? I have a digital multimeter and can do the basic measurements. The Rheem unit is about 6 years old and of course, now out of warranty. My next steps would be to replace the start relay, run cap, and lastly the fan motor, kind of in terms of increasing component part cost. Any ideas would be appreciated. Luckily we have had some rainstorms here this weekend so it's under 75-80 degrees in the house now. Thanks in advance. (One last thing - the new start cap has the same spec's as the old cap down to the MFD range and voltage, but did not have a resistor bridging the two contacts like the old cap. Could this be a problem? The resistor did seem to be a little burned on the old cap, too.) Photos of Rheem control electronics with original start cap in foreground, close-up of original cap, and close-up of new cap: http://s764.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=PICT2741.jpg http://s764.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=PICT2745.jpg http://s764.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=PICT2747.jpg
The start capacitor does not wire to your fan motor. It only serves the compressor. It will be the capacitor or fan motor (and capacitor). You did need a start cap as well though.
Hey, Houston204, thanks for the reply, but if the start cap is not wired to the fan motor, why do I keep seeing advice posted everywhere about doing the stick test to push-start the fan motor, and if that gets the fan going, then the problem is the start capacitor? I looked at the wiring diagram from the manual I found inside the condenser unit, and it shows the start cap wired to the Herm and Com contacts of the run capacitor. So does the start capacitor give an extra boost to start up the fan motor through the run capacitor, or is it all up to the run capacitor to get the fan moving and stay moving? Should I try replacing the run cap now? (BTW, why did you say I needed a start cap anyway if it has nothing to do with a fan that can't start on its own?) p.s.- Are you a HVAC pro working in the Houston area? I may need to call a pro if I run out of things to try.
Hi MrDIY I am a a/c tech with over 40yrs experience. Houston 204 is right, start caps do not hook up to the condenser fan motor. Let me run this down for you, so you know what is what when your looking at it. Start caps are round and black with a plastic housing and are marked with a range ex.(147-187mf) or higher. Run caps can be round or oval with a all metal housing and have a specific value marked on them ex.(5mf 370volt or 25mf 440v). Run cap values rarely go over a value of 100mf. Their are combination run caps that have 3 terminals on them 1. common 2. fan 3. compressor, which eliminates the need for two separate run caps (one for compressor, one for condenser fan motor. The cap for the condenser fan motor will be in the range of 2.5 to 10 or maybe 15mf. You will just have to look at the value and get an exact replacement. Also the cap with the resistor across it, (assume it is the start cap for the compressor, don't know for sure without a proper description or stated value) the resistor is to allow the charge voltage in the cap to bleed off over time, and will not effect the operation of the a/c. However if it turns out this cap is a compressor run cap the resistor is a must. The resistor allows a small trickle current to flow through the compressor windings, during the off cycle, to keep them warm so liquid refrigerant will not build up in the compressor crankcase. If liquid does build up there, and the compressor starts, Well...........lets just say compressor don't pump liquid very well, by by compressor. This is very important in the winter of course or any long period of down time to have this small current flowing. So if it is a compressor run cap, put it back like it was, or install a resistor on the new one. Note: This is why owners manuals say, if power to condensing unit has been off for an extended period of time, do not start a/c for 24hrs after power has been restored. What should you do now, glad you asked. Identify the condenser fan motor cap and replace it. If the new cap doesn't work, replace the motor with a new properly sized run cap. Do not assume that the new motor uses the same size run cap. Note: If the new cap does work, be cautious, the motor may still fell after a week or so, either because of the electrical stress it as been under, or the motor was already bad and it took out the cap in the first place. PS. Run caps do provide for some start torque to the motor, and will not start without one. But their main purpose is during the run cycle of the motor to bring the voltage and current of the motor back in phase, there by reducing power factor and motor amps. Let me know how it goes Doug
Hey MrDIY... Have you resolved your issue? If you dont mind me asking what did it be? Where did you go out and buy the relay at? I am trying to find places that sell HVAC supplies and i am having a hard time doing so. thanks for any help Kdr246
No expert..I'll state that right up front...and no offence to anyone....but I think there may be a terminology problem. And it may also depend on location and age of the unit. If the cap was hooked to the fan..then of course it would be a logical assumption that it was the problem based on the stick test. It would be the cheapest fix and 90% of the time is the problem. When I had a problem back at my last house it WAS the cap..but it was a combo cap as has been stated. I wound up buying a universal and with the right jumpers it worked fine. There were no resistors or anything..those were possibly in the unit itself? A slightly bad motor may function with a brand new cap..but will stress the cap as was stated. Only experience will tell you if a fan spins enough w/o power when spun with a stick. Bad bearings/bushings..built up junk in the housing...plenty of stuff will tell you if there is something amiss when you've seen 100 of the same thing. Of course if it wasn't hooked to the fan somehow there would be no need to replace it. dddpope..I respect your stated HVAC experience...but in 25 yrs of electronics..I never heard of bringing current back in phase.....huh?
The start cap serves the compressor, but if it is leaking it may not be a bad idea to replace it. The start cap is is only serving the compressor for starting, (2 to Herm) after which it is taken out of the circuit by the start relay. As Doug has stated, the run cap, in this case a dual capacitor, serves the fan motor. NATE certified tech, serving the Houston area since 1991, at your service
To kdr246: Yes, I fixed my parents' A/C fan problem and will post about it later, but to your point about where I got my parts. I'm sure there are many A/C supply houses around the Houston area, but my parents' house is on the west side, west of Bellaire and the Beltway. I got my parts at United A/C Supply, 9920 Westpark, 77063 (713-952-5191) because the appliance parts supply house I usually buy repair parts from to fix washers, stoves, etc. referred me there since they didn't have the capacitor I needed and United A/C was just down the street. I took the old capacitor(s) into United with me and they just matched them up with substitute replacements. I was the only walk-in consumer customer in the store since they really cater to the independent pro HVAC trade, but I had no problem getting served or getting the part(s) I needed. I guess my money/credit card is as good as anybody else's. Don't know if I got a fair price since the counter guys just write up all the invoices by hand, but if I can get out of there with a capacitor for $30 and fix my problem, that's fair enough for me.
So...was it the oval shaped cap in the drawing? (Which, because its wired to the fan..most non-pros refer to as the fan start cap..thats what I alluded to earlier). Or was it the relay? I'm not clear on what the fix was.....
Got the problem fixed (I think...more on that later)! First off, thanks a lot to Houston204 and dddpope for all their great advice. (Didn't see your post, dddpope, until I had already fixed the problem, but something you said raised another question in my mind...see bottom of this reply) Anyway, the sequence of events yesterday: 1. Having read Houston204's original reply, and reviewing the circuit diagram, I was convinced it was the Run capacitor so first thing yesterday morning I pulled it from the A/C unit and took it to the A/C supply house to get a replacement. 2. When I got back and was about to install the new Run capacitor, lo and behold, I noticed that the 1/8 inch thick stiff solid copper ground wire that is attached to the electronics control box was broken! Somehow over time, it had shifted to actually be touching the copper refrigerant tubing in the unit and apparently shorted out and eventually broke. (There were some black marks on the refrigerant tubing where the ground wire had been touching it, but the tubing still seemed to my untrained eyes to still be serviceable and not leaking.) Here's a photo of the broken ground wire: http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/x...m/PICT2753.jpg 3. After this discovery, I started to wonder if THIS was actually the true source of the fan problems - the copper ground wire had finally broken and caused the fan not to start. Maybe it was as simple as this; but since I had already installed a new Start capacitor Saturday and had a new Run capacitor in hand, and Electrical parts are final sale - no returns was the policy at the A/C store, I decided to go ahead and just install the new Run capacitor anyway. Not having my soldering iron with me, I made a quick trip out to a nearby Home Depot to buy a small wire clamp to fix the ground wire and then pulled the wire bundle away from the refrigerant tubing using a long plastic cable tie to avoid another shorting problem in the future. 4. I installed the new Run capacitor, reset the nearby electrical disconnect, and the faraway circuit breaker and had someone inside the house turn on the thermostat to Cool while I stood outside and watched the start-up. And, YES!! The fan motor started up right away! 5. I then had the thermostat turned back off after a few minutes, disconnected the nearby electrical disconnect, and turned off the breaker. Since I had a big sheet metal panel removed from the outside A/C unit, I took some time to clean the condenser coil fins with some foaming cleaner I bought at the A/C supply store. So, it seems to be all's well that ends well. HOWEVER, I am curious about a few things now that maybe the HVAC pros can chime in on to satisfy my curiosity: A) Did I install a new Start and a new Run capacitor unnecessarily? Could the problem fix have been as simple as a broken ground wire to the electronics box? I didn't do a full elimination test by putting all the old capacitors back in with just the repaired ground wire since I figured I couldn't return the caps. My guess is that a repaired ground wire was not enough because the compresser would still run with that broken ground. Also, I did the poor man's capacitance diagnostic test on the old Run cap's Fan terminal using the Ohms setting on my digital multi-meter and found that the Fan and Common terminals together would not show the cap charging up (no increase of ohms at all). B) As of yesterday, I happily concluded that the A/C was completely fixed until I read dddpope's post today. My old Start cap had the external resistor bridging the contacts and my New replacement one does not. Otherwise, all of the electrical specs on the old and new Start caps are identical. However, now dddpope's post about the resistor being needed to allow a small current to trickle to the compressor to avoid it blowing up (I suppose in the worst scenario) has got me worried. Is the resistor really necessary (could the new cap have it internally?) and do I need to solder one onto the new cap myself, or just put the old Start cap back in the unit? (The old Start cap might actually not be an option because it also failed the multi-meter diagnostic test; in fact the bridging resistor is probably bad too since it shows infinite resistance.)
So...was it the oval shaped cap in the drawing? (Which, because its wired to the fan..most non-pros refer to as the fan start cap..thats what I alluded to earlier). Or was it the relay? I'm not clear on what the fix was..... It was the Run cap (or what I've also seen referred to as the Dual cap since it is connected to both the fan and the compressor. It happens to be a cylindrical cap in my parents' Rheem unit although it is represented in Houston204's schematic as oval. BTW, I think you hit one of the problems squarely on the head GunGuy45 - Most non-pros refer to [the Run cap] as the fan start cap. That's what got me headed down the wrong path initially since I knew there was a Start cap in the system. I just didn't realize that that Start cap was only for the compressor until Houston204 explained it in his original reply. Great information and help all around on this forum! Thanks.
I'm a general building contractor here in Lodi,CA. We are now hitting 106 F for the 4th consecutive day with increasing heat to 111 f predicted for 4 more days. My neighbor ,a nice retired teacher,recently broke her leg,and is now losing her house in forclosure.To top it off , her AC went out at the start of this heat wave. I voluteered to be a good samaritan and fix her AC,but I never could have done it without your help. You are a hero 'dddpope' and also the moderators who also assisted. Thank-you so much for your valuable input. You are inspiring me to try to give others a hand as well. Great Work Guys !!
The thermostat in your Toyota Tacoma is an essential part of the truck's engine cooling system. The thermostat expands when the coolant in your engine becomes too hot, opening a valve that allows much more coolant to circulate through the system. The increase in coolant flowing through the radiator brings down the overall fluid temperature, and as a result, your truck's engine continues to operate within the optimal engine temperature. When the thermostat is no longer working properly, the engine overheats and the thermostat needs to be replaced.
Instructions
1. Remove the lower radiator hose by unscrewing the clamps and pulling off the hose.
2. Unscrew the two bolts on top of the thermostat.
3. Remove the thermostat and the gasket from the water pump.
4. Clean the thermostat housing, removing any dirt and leftover gasket pieces.
5. Line up the valve on the new thermostat with the point on the inlet, and place the new thermostat and gasket into the thermostat housing.
6. Screw the two bolts you removed earlier back into place.
7. Reattach the lower radiator hose and clamp it into place.
8. Top off the radiator with fresh coolant.
Tips Warnings
Never work on your engine's cooling system until it has had substantial time to cool.
Smart keys used with Toyota vehicles are electronic devices that allow car owners to unlock, lock and start vehicles without the need of a standard key and key-entry process. The keys emit a radio frequency that is picked up by a vehicle antenna. When the vehicle senses the device is in proximity, the doors are unlocked and the engine can start without the need of a standard key. These devices make Toyota vehicles more technically savvy, but they also come with an array of issues.
Interference
When the smart key is within acceptable vicinity of the vehicle, the antenna on the vehicle will pick up the signal transmitted from the key. This signal allows the car to unlock the door or engine to start. When the key is not within range of the vehicle, the car remains locked. Because electrical signals from the key are sent through the air, similarly to radio frequencies, there is a chance they could encounter interference from other electrical frequencies. It has been reported that gas stations, military bases and airports, all locations with heavy radio frequencies and traffic, can interfere with the functionality of the smart key. When in a location with interference, the smart key may not function remotely and will require the traditional use of the key to unlock and start the vehicle.
Battery Replacement
Smart keys function by emitting a radio frequency to the vehicle, requiring batteries as their source of power. Toyota smart keys remain dormant or powered off until they receive an electrical ping from the vehicle that prompts the key to send a signal back to the vehicle. Theoretically, the battery power of the smart key would only be used when in the process of entering or operating the vehicle. However, numerous electrical devices such as cell phones and Bluetooth devices transmit electrical pings. When a smart key is near other devices that emit pings, the smart key does not remain dormant and uses small amounts of battery power. Over time, the battery power will diminish in the smart key, requiring battery replacement. The more your key is around other electrical devices, the more frequently it will require battery replacement.
Smart Key Replacement
Smart keys are unique to each Toyota vehicle that they are programmed to unlock. A Toyota smart key could not unlock another Toyota vehicle, as the keys are unique to each vehicle, just like standard keys. When a smart key is programmed, the key and the vehicle must both be adjusted and tuned to the same radio frequency. When replacing a smart key, the replacement process is not the same as with traditional keys. A vehicle owner can expect a large bill and a trip to the Toyota dealership to replace a smart key. To replace one, the vehicle requires reprogramming at a dealership and then the new smart key must be programmed to match the frequency and codes of the vehicle. For a smart key replacement, a vehicle owner can expect to pay a few hundred dollars to a Toyota dealership or Toyota authorized service mechanic.
The Waterpik allows us to bring a little bit of the dentist's office home with us. This device shoots concentrated jets of water onto our teeth to act as a liquid dental floss. Here are some steps you can take to use a Waterpik without getting soaked.
Instructions
1. Select a top accessory that is appropriate for the job you want to do. Waterpik has several different fittings. One is simply a jet that shoots water; another is a toothbrush that also jets water; another features an orthodontic attachment. The brush is your best bet for keeping dry.
2. Fill your Waterpik#x2019;s water tank. The sinktop model will have a detachable tank that can be filled and then snapped into place on the unit. The cordless model has a small hole at the base that can be exposed and filled with water.
3. Choose an appropriate speed for your water jets. Be aware that the highest settings (five on some models and 10 on others) come out with a great amount of velocity and can cause your gums to bleed if you are not used to the pressure. Start with a low pressure setting, as this will save your gums and prevent a lot of water from splashing out of your mouth and drenching your clothes.
4. Hang your head over a sink before turning on the device. Do not tilt the Waterpik as you would a toothbrush. Instead, keep it straight up and down to keep the device from soaking you. Flip the On switch.
5. Keep the Waterpik close to your teeth to avoid getting soaked. Holding the device far away from your mouth could lead to getting wet due to the amount of water that a Waterpik uses.
Toyota vehicles come with either a smart key system or a standard remote. The standard keyless entry remote is integrated with the ignition key. The smart key system uses an Engine Start button. Every couple of years, you may need to replace the battery in your smart key or in your standard keyless entry remote. The battery replacement procedure is similar for the two key systems, with only slight variations. Use only the listed battery type; no other batteries are compatible. The key system equipped in your vehicle depends on which Toyota model you have.
Instructions
Replacing the Battery in the Toyota Smart Key
1. Grasp the end of the smart key and pull out the mechanical key. Hold the smart key in your hand with the Toyota emblem facing up. The cross in the logo should be facing away from you.
2. Insert the flat head screwdriver into the slot on the bottom right edge of the smart key. Turn the screwdriver gently to pop off the cover. Lift the cover off fully. You'll see the battery.
3. Pull the battery out of its holder. Lay the new battery in the holder. The positive side must face up.
4. Place the cover back on top of the smart key. Push the cover down firmly to reattach it.
5. Insert the mechanical key back into the smart key.
Replacing the Battery in the Toyota Keyless Remote
6. Turn the keyless entry remote over. The Toyota logo should be facing up. The key end of the remote should be facing away from you.
7. Insert the flat head screwdriver into the edge of the key chain holder. Turn the screwdriver to open the keyless remote. Set the cover aside.
8. Grasp the keyless entry module and lift it up. This is the computer part of the remote. The battery is inside this module.
9. Grasp each end of the module and pull apart to open it. You'll see the battery. Lift it out of the holder. Insert the new battery. The positive side should be facing up toward the module cover with the arrow on it.
10. Push the two ends of the module back together. They will snap into place. Insert the module back into the keyless entry remote. The arrow on top of the module should be facing up.
11. Place the cover back on top of the keyless remote. Push it down firmly against the unit to snap it back together.
When you first install a Grohe kitchen faucet, the hose for your water supply is connected to the base of the faucet using connectors. Removing the hose, will takes just under a half hour, if you have some experience handling faucets and appliances. If not, plan to spend an hour or less removing your faucet hoses.
Instructions
1. Shut off the water supply to the faucet by closing the two pipe valves right below the faucet inside the cabinets. These pipes feed water to your faucet, so closing the valves shuts off all water to the appliance.
2. Find the base of the faucet under the counter top and inside the cabinets. Use a flash light to locate this if necessary.
3. Grasp the coupling at the base of the hose. Push the coupling sleeve up and turn counterclockwise to disconnect the union between the two parts. The snap coupling secures the hose to the connector, so it has to be disconnected to remove the hose.
4. Pull the hand spray out of the faucet base, and disconnect the hose at the base of the sprayer by turning the coupling counterclockwise to unscrew the connection. Use a wrench to assist in removal if necessary. Remove the sprayer and pull the hose out of the faucet spout.
5. Keep all parts including the connectors and O rings inside of the connectors to assist in reassembly if you plan to reconnect the hoses in the future.
Making hot wings is a process that many people find challenging, so many don't try it. But with a good recipe and a little patience, you can make fresh hot wings for family and friends. They're great deep fried or grilled.
Instructions
1. Lay chicken wings out on paper towels and pat them completely dry. Season them liberally with salt on both sides.
2. Combine dry ingredients in large mixing bowl. Add chicken and toss to coat heavily with mixture.
3. Refrigerate the chicken for at least 2 hours.
4. Let chicken come back up to room temperature. Heat oil over medium high heat in large frying pan. When oil reaches proper temperature, lay five pieces of chicken in hot oil and turn when golden brown.
5. Serve with sides of celery along with ranch or blue cheese dressing, once the chicken is fully cooked. Or pull the meat off the bones and use it however you like.
Tips Warnings
The longer the chicken sets, the more like the spices it will taste. Let chicken set at least 2 hours, and as many as 24 hours.
Make sure that you keep it refrigerated, and out of the danger zone. Once you put the spices on the wings, never let them come to room temperature until you're ready to fry them.
Finding legitimate Nike wholesalers can be difficult.
Aside from athletic purposes, Nike sneakers have become a part of urban and hip hop culture over the last three decades. The popularity of the Nike brand has created a market for wholesale Nike products. Getting Nike shoes at wholesale prices can be a difficult task. There are three ways of buying wholesale Nike shoes -- becoming a retailer, ordering for a sports team, or finding a wholesaler who is willing to sell to a private entity.
Instructions
Become a Nike Retailer
1. Visit the Nike website (help-us.nike.com) and download the retailer application packet.
2. Fill out the application in its entirety and double check to ensure that all necessary items are attached to your application.
3. Notarize the signatures on the application. Most banks have a Notary Public on staff who can notarize materials and documents. Some banks offer this service for free to customers, others charge a small fee for the service. Check with your bank beforehand to find out the fee structure.
4. Mail the application to the address provided in the application packet.
5. The application process can take several weeks. You may email Nike directly if you have concerns regarding your application at M.Newdoor.inq@nike.com.
Sports Teams
6. Visit Nike.com and click on the Team Uniform tab at the right of the screen.
7. Choose your sport and necessary equipment and add it to your cart.
8. Nike will discount the bulk order automatically upon checkout.
Individuals
9. Visit Tradepub.com and order free retail trade publications. These publications are used in the retail business to swap information and ideas. Many people, including legitimate wholesalers, also advertise in them.
10. Scour the magazine for names and contact information of wholesalers advertising in the publication.
11. Call the wholesalers directly to find out how they do business. Find out about sample orders and the the requirements for subsequent orders. This information is important for a number of reasons: First, as an individual you may not have the means to order in the quantities necessary; additionally, you can determine if the wholesaler is interested in doing business on smaller orders.
12. Place your first order with a wholesaler for a sample. A sample is a smaller order still at wholesale prices. Most wholesalers will offer sample lots to gain customer trust and loyalty.
Tips Warnings
Beware of internet wholesale stores. Many are selling counterfeit merchandise.
Check any business you plan on working with with the Better Business Bureau
The spout of a Moen Extensa pullout faucet is attached to a hose that retracts into the faucet body and is stored beneath the sink. The Moen Extensa is convenient for washing items that will not fit under the spout. The spout is pulled out and can be positioned anywhere the hose will reach. Over time, the inside of the faucet body where the hose retracts becomes dirty and gathers debris. The inside of the Moen Extensa pullout faucet is cleaned by removing the hose.
Instructions
1. Fill the sink halfway with warm water and add two or three squirts of dish soap.
2. Position yourself under the sink so you have access to the underneath of the faucet.
3. Trace the hose that attaches to the handle of the Moen Extensa pullout. Locate where the end of the hose attaches to the underneath of the faucet.
4. Disconnect the end of the hose using a small adjustable wrench. Pull the hose up and out of the faucet body on the sink top. Place the hose and the handle in the soapy water.
5. Place a small bucket under the sink beneath the faucet. This will catch the soapy water that will leak as you clean.
6. Dip a bottle brush in the soapy water and insert it into the faucet body. Scrub the inside of the faucet body while frequently dipping the bottle brush into the soapy water. Rinse the bottle brush and insert it again to rinse the inside of the faucet body.
7. Scrub the hose and handle with a scouring pad and rinse them with warm water. Dry the underneath of the sink using paper towels. Reinstall the hose by reversing the procedure you used to remove it.
Classic car enthusiasts like the nostalgia, solid ride, extra horsepower from a bygone era and possibility for a good return on their investment that is represented by a classic Pontiac GTO. Since the disaster that struck the stock market on September 11, 2001, the price for these cars has gone wild. Here's buy a piece of the action.
Instructions
1. Determine how much you want to spend on a classic GTO. If you are willing to do some or all of the restoration yourself, you can buy a muscle car for a lot fewer dollars. Financing is hard to find for classic cars, but it is available.
2. Pick the body style you like by browsing Internet websites dedicated to classic GTOs. You will also be gleaning some information about availability and prices as you surf.
3. Read muscle car magazines and look at the advertisements.
4. Attend a classic car show in your area and talk to the GTO owners. Some cars at these shows are for sale. Ask the owners for tips on buying one.
5. Place a want ad on the Internet or do a search on eBay Motors. Browse sites with ads for classic GTOs and buy online.
6. Check local car lots for a classic GTO, but know they are very hard to find.
7. Join a local classic car club to learn more and network.
8. Use an appraisal service before you buy a car, unless you know the price is right. Many online classic GTO sites offer this service.
If you own a Grohe faucet, there are a select number of faucet parts you can use during faucet repair. These parts include everything you need to fix most common problems, from leaking to water flow and control problems. If you are an experienced handyman or a newbie, use these parts to get the job done right.
Cartridge
The most important faucet repair part for the Grohe line of faucets is the cartridge. This is the part containing the washer seals for the hot and cold water. It is installed with two screws on most Grohe kitchen faucets and with a bonnet in bathroom shower faucets. Replacing this part solves problems with leaks and unbalanced water temperature, because that problem is a result of faulty or worn-out faucet seals. Replace it by removing the handle and bonnet and inserting a new cartridge into the faucet head.
Handles and Covers
Grohe faucets also have handles and covers for the cartridge. These parts are replaceable and available through the manufacturer or a plumbing parts dealer. Replace them when they are pitted, rusted or worn out. Though they do not affect the faucet in terms of performance for the most part, they do improve the look and appearance of your bathroom or kitchen. Most handles are attached with a screw and, once removed, the handle comes right off. Covers or trim sleeves slide right off after the handle is removed.
Spouts and Aerators
The spout and aerator are two additional parts often replaced. The spout, the part where the water comes out, may sustain damage to the exterior due to frequent use, pitting or corrosion. The aerator is the round tip fitted into the spout with a wire mesh screen to add air to your water stream as it flows out. This often clogs with sediments or becomes corroded. The spout is removed by taking off the handle and lifting it off the base, while the aerator is unscrewed and replaced with a new one.